Shanghai’s only professional football team is called Shanghai Shenhua FC. They play in the Chinese domestic league at Hongkou stadium, and I went to see them last Friday.

Getting a ticket is pretty easy- you come out of the subway station (lines 3 and 8 go straight there) and get jumped on by scores of guys trying to sell them to you. I’d been told that the golden rule is never to pay more than 40RMB so the conversation went like this:
Me: How much for a ticket?
Him: One million dollars
Me: Hmm I heard it was normally 30RMB for one ticket
Him: Oh you’re very skilful! OK- 30RMB.
It’s a buyer’s market since the stadium is huge and only 1/4 full for most games.
Buying a ticket outside like that means you don’t get to sit (well, stand) with the hardcore fans in the season ticket holders area behind both goals, banging drums and waving flags for the whole game. You also can’t sit in your seat and drink beer, although they do sell it and you can stand at the back and still see the game whilst you drink and hang out with the security guards.
The guards were great actually- they let people smoke in the stadium but only if you give them one. They get loads of cigarettes this way, so they keep the spare ones under their hat.
Ways that watching football in Shanghai differs from in the UK:
- The club shop sold scarves, badges and shirts from other football teams.
- One fan had a flag with a picture of Che Guevara and the word “BOYS” written underneath it
- The manager went to the club shop at half time to sign autographs
(well, Shenhua were 2-0 up by then so I guess there was no point in giving a team talk)
- You can buy the ticket, three beers, and a chicken burger and have change from 100RMB

You can just about see Che Guevera on the flag
Shenhua beat Shenzhen 4-1, in fact they’re having a great start to the season so far.
If you’re interested in going (and you should be cos it’s ace) then there’s is a good Facebook page here: Shanghai Shenhua FC Supporters
The next 5 home games are:
Sunday, 10 May 2009 19:45
Shanghai Shenhua v Qingdao
Tuesday, 19 May 2009 20:00
Shanghai Shenhua v Kashima Antlers
Saturday, 20 June 2009 19:45
Shanghai Shenhua v Dalian
Thursday, 2 July 2009 19:45
Shanghai Shenhua v Chongqing
Saturday, 8 August 2009 19:45
Shanghai Shenhua v Chengdu Blades
All home games are at the Hongkou stadium- a 25RMB taxi ride out of town, with metro stations on lines 3 and 8.
http://www.exploreshanghai.com/metro/pedia/station/hongkou-football-stadium
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