Published by Swiss James on 29 Oct 2008 at 01:11 pm
The Fabric Market- a how to guide
I’ve bought some horrible stuff at Shanghai’s various fabric markets. Shiny blue jackets that I’ll never wear, an ice-white linen suit that saw a brief outing at one of Dingle’s fashionable BBQs, and numerous pairs of trousers that developed holes at just the wrong place and time.
Still though, winter is coming up and I can’t be seen wearing last year’s coat- what would the neighbours say?
Here then is my timely guide to getting a good price at the Fabric market:
Act like you’re not bothered
Only suckers act like they really want to have a suit made, suckers who get ripped off. You really haven’t decided whether you’re going to buy today, maybe you’ll buy a hamburger instead.
This is a hard act to pull off when you’re specifying fabrics, number of buttons, extra-crotch reinforcing etc. so pretend to treat all decisions hypothetically;
“Assuming I was looking for a jacket, then maybe I’d like you to copy this one that I’ve brought all the way across town in a plastic bag.
Perhaps I would want you to make the waist slightly bigger, because it’s possible that I eat a lot of mashed potato and gravy at KFC“
Subtly imply that you don’t have much money
“You don’t need to make the pockets very big, usually all I carry is a bus pass and some stale rice“
Speak Chinese
The more the better, but at the very least you need to manage a passable ”Aiyo!” when the first tentative prices are being floated around. Extra bonus points are added for a
“Tai gui le!” (too expensive!)
or a
“Wo bu shi ri ben ren!!!” (”I’m not Japanese!”)
If you’re white / otherly foreign, then speaking Chinese is basically a way of saying that you’re not a tourist, and it also gives the stall holders something fun to laugh about when your back is turned.
Speak Shanghainese
Slightly more tricky to pull off, but expat wisdom suggests that whilst stupid old whitey always pays more than the Chinese, out of towners also pay less more than anyone who can speak Taxi-driver talk.
(fixed 30th Oct, ta Liam)
Don’t blink first
Market stall holders can spot a sucker at 30 paces, but if you’re following the steps above it’s going to take them a bit longer to work out what kind of sucker you are.
Prolong their realisation by point-blank refusing to name a price that you want to pay. Let them name a price (which you should find both hilarious and horrifying) and have them come down a couple of notches first.
Ideally you should have the clothes hanging up in your wardrobe at home, with patches of wear beginning to show from a few seasons of regular rotation before you call up the tailor and make your first low ball offer.
Do the walk off. (But not that walk off)
Everyone knows the old walk-away-in-disgust technique- where the stall holder is supposed to chase after you in tears begging you to come back and pay whatever small coins you have in your pocket.
Maybe it’ll work, maybe it won’t- but there are few things more embarassing than doing the walk off and then having to come back shamefaced because you can’t find another stall that’s willing to make a lace girdle for a 30 year old man.
If you do decide to go this direction, then pretend that you’re breaking up with someone. It’s not them, it’s you, you want to think things over, you can’t help thinking that somewhere out there is a piece with better quality, a cheaper price, or sleeve buttons that actually fasten (hmm, this metaphor needs some work).
Finally
Always remember that the following phrases have no meaning whatsoever and should be ignored:
- “Friend price”
- Final offer
- Ohh handsome!
- Where are you from? Oh I like England/USA/Botswana very much!
- Please put underwear back on! Do not touch fabric like that!
There are two main fabric markets in Shanghai:
South Bund Soft Spinning Materials Market
399 Lujiabang Lu (near Nanpu Bridge)
Shiliupu Material Shopping Market
Dongmen Lu near Zhonghua Lu





Still swear by Jackson at the fabric market (153), got three shirts there last week for 250rmb.
I don’t know, a few negative comments about the linen suit at my barbecue and it never saw the light of day again, I think you should give it another try swiss, roll the sleeves up again, Miami Vice style
Your comments were both cruel and unnecessary – I was bringing Jan Hammer back!
I reckon I’m onto a good one with this coat anyway, the sample they had was well nice. The girl in the shop said I looked very handsome in it.
James make the shoulder pads bigger and you’re be the envy of all. And don’t wear socks.
And Jan Jammer has nothing on Harold Faltermeyer.
When did china go metro?
So the price you agreed on was 550 for what?
87 sea island cotton shirts, 14 suits made from heavy cashmere and lined in silk, a top hat polished so well that I can see my face in it, a fur vest made from finest gorilla chest, two pairs of Shell Cordovan brogues, and a partridge in a pear tree.
James I think they saw you coming mate. For that price, I would hope they did the fitting at your home and delivered the finished garments to your doorstep with a lifetime guarantee.
Kristi, some time shortly after James arrived I believed.
Coincidence? I think not!
A coat??? Christ, we picked up a suit and a shirt for less than that last week, is the fabric made from the hairs on billy goats chins or something?
He’s bringing metro back. YEAH!!!
a suit and a shirt has got way less material than a coat.
Jebus wept Dingle, sometimes I think you know nothing at all about the worldwide cashmere coat shortage!!
they threw in one of these :
http://shanghaiist.com/attachments/shang_kenneth/potd0808.jpg
cool! I’ve always wanted a rubber ring
Yeah, we’ve been talking about about doing a fashion tailor post for a while now – Woai got us talking about it with all his original Fashion Friday talk – but after this I don’t think that we’ve got anything that we could teach people.
I’d like to say that’s expensive, but that’s about the same as we pay in our small town of Xiamen. Either you’re a great barterer or we really get taken by these tailor folks.
I am assuming the price you paid 550 rmb which is about $80 is a steep price for a coat. Is a coat a regular coat/jacket or more of a blazer/business attire?
I am also assuming that in China/Shanghai you can purchase a wool suit for less than 550 rmb?
If these are true, hence me being the stupid foreigner can I assume that James believed the following?
Ohh handsome! (Why thank you, do you know I am very famouse, I have my own blog)
Where are you from? Oh I like England/USA/Botswana very much! (U know of Doncaster, yes I was voted most popular there in 1997)
Please put underwear back on! Do not touch fabric like that! (Its okay I touch it I will buy it…ooh…ahh….)
I’m confused by your speak shanghaiese point, although t’were an otherwise excellent and informative piece. If out of towners pay less than those who can speak taxi-driver speak (surely taxi drivers speak shanghaiese right?), why would you want to speak it?
Anyway, more to the point, are you in for Mo’vember? A bald man with a ‘tash has more than a touch of class, y’know.
Maybe Chinese labor cost is going up!
Liam- you’re right, I messed that up, fixed now. Shanghainese pay less than the other types for everything, or so I’m told.
I was going to grow a tache for Mo’vember last year, but WoAi talked me out of it saying that it would look like I was compensating for my baldosity.
OK OK OK- so maybe 550 is a bit much to pay for a coat, but a coat in this case isn’t what youse Americans call a “sports coat” (i.e. something that finishes at your waist and is basically just a suit jacket that doesn’t match), it’s a long overcoat that finishes at about knee level.
You’re right though, 550 isn’t particularly cheap for that kind of thing, in fact Emma walked off in disgust at my poor bargaining skillz.
In my defence though, it’s really nice material, the woman started at 1300 or something ludicrous, and after we agreed the price she said
“Oh you got a good price, look at this receipt- the last guy paid 1000!”
I’m better at giving advice than following it.
James I think the phrase is “do as I say, not as I do”. You are good at the theory part :-p
And for 550 rmb I would expect the coat to go way past the knees, at least to the ankles!
oh they always do the old showing the receipt book. My tailor did the same – look so many people paid much more than you!
Just paid 900 for a cashmere coat.. am a sucker for all those ladies calling me “shuai-ge” (”sexy stud”).
Excellent post – who do you go for lace girdle?
Acually not a terrible price from a tailor near a metro station. I’d expected they to have ripped you off more :D
If you really are looking for the cheapest tailor services, I would look in a ‘long tang’ / farmer’s market / side street near you and NOT anywhere near a metro station.
well a friend of mine swears by Jackson at stall 153 of the fabric market…
Ah no, I got the coat from the fabric market, the one next to the metro station was a rip-off.
Hmm long tangs eh? Is that where the wai di ren go when they’re looking for a suit to wear whilst ditch-digging?
A friend of yours, eh? So where do you get your lace girdles?
You might look like you’re compensating for baldness, but you might. Just. Look. Flair.
Get in.
I wasn’t going to say anything about your wing buttocks, but…
Hi James. What are wing-buttocks? Can you explain?
I wish I knew what wing buttocks were, but as you can plainly see from the form- I ain’t got em.
Liam- are you really growing a tache then?
I am. S-Day (Shaving Day) is today. I’ve got almost everyone at work involved, there’s a Facebook event i’ve invited you to… it’s a great excuse to work on the paedophile/80s pop or football start/gay icon/early 20th century dictator look you’ve always secretly wanted to go for… go on, you can even get sponsored and any cash raised goes to prostate cancer charities, so the woman in your life can’t even complain!
An excellent cause there Liam, Swiss, I’ll put 30 quid down if you do it.
Also, if you don’t I’ll donate the 30 quid to agencies which are legislating AGAINST the prostate cancer charities, so, a double whammy there swiss.
Nice work Dingle, the subtext, I presume, of your message is that you too will be partaking?
nah, I only get bum-fluff, I haven’t shaved for about a month as it is
I visit Shanghai about 4 times per year on business for about 3 weeks each time, and come in and out of the city on various occasions during those visits.
I have used the South Bund Market quite a lot and like everytrhing else in this world – caveat emptor!!
I have have long pants, shorts, shirts, sports jackets, suits and coats made. Only twice have I been let down. I do have a mainstream tailor who mkaes my seriously good stuff, but the people at the South Budn market whom I use are very good and very good value for money.
Just 1 example – Eric Chang’s shirt shop on the third level, furthest aisle, is outstanding. 100RMB for the best made shirts I have ever worn. Take you own design if you like. His material is first rate, and the finished product is excellent.